I see it in my clinic all the time. Someone comes in, frustrated. They’ve tried every cream and serum, but their skin just feels… dull. Or maybe they’re bothered by the faint outlines of old acne scars or the soft “peach fuzz” that makes makeup look uneven. They’re looking for a reset button. For many, a procedure called Dermaplaning can feel like that fresh start.
It’s a non-surgical way to deeply exfoliate your skin, giving it a smoother and more radiant appearance. But it’s not for everyone, and it’s important to know what you’re getting into. So, let’s talk about it, just like we would in an exam room.
What Exactly Is Dermaplaning?
Think of it as a professional, precise shave for your face. A trained dermatologist, plastic surgeon, or aesthetician uses a sterile, surgical-grade scalpel. They hold the skin taut and gently stroke the blade along the surface at a 45-degree angle.
This process does two things:
- It removes the fine, vellus hairs on your face (that “peach fuzz”).
- It scrapes off the outermost layer of dead skin cells and debris.
The goal is to reveal the newer, undamaged skin underneath. This can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and superficial acne scars. And because you’re removing that layer of fuzz and dead cells, skincare products can penetrate more effectively, and makeup can go on much more smoothly.
A common question I get is: “Will my hair grow back thicker and darker?” The answer is no. That’s a myth. The fine vellus hair will grow back at the same rate and with the same texture as before.
It’s easy to mix up skin procedures. They sound similar, but they’re quite different.
| Procedure | What It Is | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Dermaplaning | Uses a scalpel to gently shave off the top layer of skin and vellus hair. It’s minimally invasive. | Dullness, peach fuzz, and very superficial texture issues. |
| Microdermabrasion | A non-surgical procedure that uses a tool with an exfoliating surface to “sand” the skin. | Fine lines, minor scars, and uneven skin tone. |
| Dermabrasion | A more intensive, surgical procedure that removes deeper layers of skin. Requires significant downtime. | Deeper scars, significant sun damage, and more pronounced wrinkles. |
Is Dermaplaning Right for You?
This is the most important conversation to have. It’s a wonderful procedure for some, but not a good fit for others. Here’s a quick guide to help you think it through.
| Good Candidates Usually Have… | Who Should Pause or Avoid It? |
|---|---|
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The Procedure and Recovery: A Walk-Through
If you and your provider decide to go ahead, the process is pretty straightforward.
Before: You’ll have a consultation to discuss your goals and your health history. Your provider will examine your skin to make sure it’s ready.
During: You’ll lie back comfortably. Your face will be cleaned thoroughly. While general anesthesia isn’t needed, a numbing cream might be applied about 30 minutes beforehand. During the procedure, you’ll feel a light scratching or scraping sensation. It’s not typically painful. The whole thing can take anywhere from 20 minutes to over an hour, depending on the area. Afterward, a soothing serum or moisturizer is often applied.
After: Your skin will be sensitive. Expect some redness and maybe a little swelling for a few days—this is normal. It might feel tight or a bit tender. The recovery journey is different for everyone, but here’s a general idea of what to expect.
| Recovery Phase | What to Expect & Do |
|---|---|
| First Few Days | Skin will be red and tender. Be gentle! Use a simple, mild cleanser and a rich moisturizer. Absolutely no exfoliating products. |
| Week 1 | Redness and swelling should be mostly gone. You might see some tiny whiteheads, which usually resolve on their own. Sunscreen is non-negotiable—your new skin is very vulnerable. |
| Week 2 | You may develop a light scab or flakiness, which is part of the healing. Don’t pick at it! Avoid strenuous activity that causes a lot of sweating. |
| Month 1 & Beyond | Continue to be diligent with sun protection. Results are temporary, as your skin and hair continue their natural growth cycle. Many people repeat the treatment every 4-6 weeks to maintain the effect. |
| When to Call Your Doctor | |
| While risks are low, contact your provider if you see signs of infection (pus, worsening pain), blistering, any bleeding, or if swelling lasts more than a week. | |
Please, do not attempt this at home. The tools sold for at-home use are not the same as a sterile, surgical scalpel, and the risk of cutting yourself, causing an infection, or creating scars is much higher without professional training.
Take-Home Message
- Dermaplaning is a cosmetic procedure that uses a scalpel to remove dead skin and fine facial hair (“peach fuzz”).
- It can make skin look smoother, brighter, and help makeup apply more evenly.
- It is NOT a good idea if you have active acne, eczema, psoriasis, or a tendency for cold sores.
- Recovery involves a few days of redness and requires strict sun protection for weeks afterward.
- Your hair will NOT grow back thicker or darker.
- Always have this procedure done by a trained and licensed professional to ensure safety and the best results.
This isn’t a magic wand, and it doesn’t stop the aging process. But for the right person, it can be a fantastic way to boost your confidence and get that healthy glow you’ve been missing. If you’re curious, the best next step is always a conversation with a trusted skincare professional or dermatologist.
You deserve to feel good in your skin. We’re here to help you figure out how.